Author Archives: Gio&Bert

From Buenos Aires with Love

31/03/2014 – 09/04/2014

This post is going to be pretty long. So please, dear friends! Don’t be scared, no hurry, no worry. Have a seat, a mug of hot tea and enjoy it.

After almost one day and an half travelling by train, we can’t feel our body anymore. Our legs are sleeping. I stick my face out the window, feel the wind as we drive. Buenos Aires is standing in front of us. We can’t believe it. We made it and we are going to tell this story for the rest of our life.

Some friends are waiting for us at the train station. What a gloomy weather! We feel the rain and its embrace. After having stretched our limbs, this sweet elderly couple takes us to their son’s place, Federico, who, without even know us, will be our host for the next few days and finally we can have a shower, rest a bit and think about the odyssey we just experienced. When Fede gets home from work, he immediately makes us feel at home. He is so caring and hospitable. We start to know each other e we let him guide us in the very heart of the city.

A couple of hours walk is enough to understand that Buenos Aires is a place full of beauties and contradictions, worthy of being discovered in its deeper shades. With the map and all the detailed information let from Fede’ s parents we spend a whole week trying to get the best of this fascinating metropolis. Wandering around, all the time with our eyes wide open and our heads strained to look up at every sign and building, so as not to miss anything, we cross parks, a beautiful rose garden e the charming Japanese Garden, built in 1967 after the visit of a member of the Japanese imperial family. Located in the residential neighbourhood of Palermo, this Zen oasis is the symbol of the historical relationship between Argentina and Japan with its cultural centre, its sushi restaurant and the Bonsai nursery.

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The more we see of BBAA, the more we fall in love with it. Parks, historical buildings, many “barrios” (neighbourhoods), all of them worthy a visit and with different peculiarities, for all tastes and wallets.

DSC06033 Puerto Madero (the old port of the city), developed along the bank of Rio Plata and built to solve the problem of the docking of large cargo ships, is the latest architectural trend of BBAA characterised by streets named after women and a breathtaking urban panorama with old brick red warehouses at one side of the river and modern skyscrapers at the other one. After a massive regeneration effort, it has become an elegant meeting point with bars and restaurants, chic hotels and offices, and a popular destination for foreign buyers interested in investment properties.

Puerto Nuevo (New Port), the real port of the city and a popular weekend destination, is located in Retiro District and provides transportation services to/from Uruguayan cities, the touristic town of Tigre and river cruise ships.

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Plaza de Mayo, the main square of Buenos Aires and probably one of the most emblematic place in Argentina’s history, takes its name from the May Revolution (25 may 1810), the first step towards the independence of Argentina. It is surrounded by several political and historical buildings, among them the executive mansion and office of the president of the Country, more commonly known as Casa Rosada (Pink House), home to the balcony where Eva Peròn stood as she addressed Argentine masses. Location of revolutions and social demonstrations, this square began in 1977 the meeting point for the Abuelas (grandmothers) de Plaza de Mayo who still fight for the localization and return of the children (their grandsons) disappeared in Argentina during the Dirty War of the military dictatorship, between 1976 and 1983. Painted on the ground of the square are the white scarves, symbol of the “mothers” engaged in the struggle for human and civil rights in Argentina and in Latin America.

The Barrio Chino or Chinatown, located in Belgrano district, is a commercial area where the Asian community live and work characterized by an impressive entrance arch. Is here, right before the entrance door that we find a small gazebo in which some people are dancing Milonga, argentine typical folk music that incorporates the same basic elements as tango with a greater relaxation of the body. Beautiful!

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In BBAA a close friend of us is having good time too. Charlotte, our French travel mate, is spending a few days in the capital and we decide to meet her at the Recoleta cemetery, a monumental cemetery where Evita’ s body came to rest in 1976. Her black tomb is all the time visited by tourists and admirers who nearly everyday leave notes and flowers. A truly evocative place! DSC05957 DSC05968


Walking around the city means enjoying the Buenos Aires’ street art, chancing upon unusual and spectacular artworks on buildings façade, walls or lamps. Wandering the streets of Palermo or San Telmo it is like being in an open-air museum with huge murals and creative handmade street decorations.

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Sifting through monuments, small roads and wide avenues, we end up in La Boca, one of the most visited neighbourhood thanks to its lively colourful houses, cosy pedestrian streets with tango performances and souvenir shops, and, of course,  Maradona and the Bombonera (chocolate box), the stadium owned by Boca Juniors (Maradona’ s football team). Sooo fascinating, too touristic and probably a bit “fake” (I don’t know what is left of the original neighbourhood and buildings) but still charming and worth a visit.

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As we get lost in its streets, we bump into the cine-theatre Brown. Its art nouveau façade and the huge hall welcome us in a friendly atmosphere. Lorena and her colleagues are enthusiastic of talking about their cultural centre with foreign visitors who are just chasing down stories. We suggest to visit and like their FB page in order to know more about their activities and initiatives.

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So…time flies when you are having fun. We spend a whole week in BBAA, roaming around the city during the day and having good time with dear friends at night, going out for a drink with Federico and enjoying a real asado at his parents’ place. We even have the chance to meet again Tio Cacho and Guillermo who invited us for dinner and prepared empanadillas. We talk about photography, we drink red wine and have a pleasant night walk along the shores of Rio Plata. The most delicious farewell ever! DSC05993

We will never forget them as we will never be able to get this city out of our mind and the warm-hearted people we met in this week.

One more time…we have to say goodbye and most important thing…we decide to book the flight back home. It seems like it’s time to go back. We realize it is almost one year since we last saw our parents and friends, we are running out of money and we start to feel a bit homesick. So…ticket booked…less than one month and we will have to leave such a beloved continent. To be continued…

Categories: Argentina | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Córdoba – Buenos Aires by train


“It will never be the same.” is my immediate thought now that I read news of Argentina’s new trains that connects Córdoba with Buenos Aires.  More comfort in both: first and second class railway wagons, a modern coach with catering and bar, wagons with isolated compartments so the 6 customers can sleep all night long and wake up just before arriving at destination and a powerful new faster engine to pull it all.  It’s all good and it is a step forward but it’s also the end of a whole generation of travellers.  Let me introduce you to what was.  Staying in Córdoba had been of the scale in our travel experiences and after a week we are ready to move forward.  Where, why, how and how much is the holy foursome in the quest of long term travelling.  But here we knew it would be the train… not only because it’s ridiculously cheap but because of curiosity as lots of roommates, travellers and hosts had warned us that the train to Buenos Aires is the very last option to take.  I remember some of them telling me that they would rather go by feet than the train.  And they might be wright if they wanted to get there faster.  This route had two services a week which most of the time were sold-out.  You had to be plenty time before in the overcrowded, hot and humid railway station to deposit your backpacks.  After another bit of waiting the doors open and you can enter the wagons to find your seat in between the many pushing and pulling people who carried more hand luggages each than our two backpacks together.  Rows of vinyl covered wooden benches for three at one side and for two at the other side of a small pass way got crammed by people at the most chaotically and ineffective way.  Nevertheless after a while each individual would find his seat according his ticket and the scene calmed down as the ‘mate’ started to circulate.  At first you could hear some cracking noises, then the scream of iron that got tortured and finally the train starts to move… and that’s it… it keeps starting to move, it would not speed up… ever!!!  You could see some family members walking next to the train till the very end of the platform while waving to their beloved.  Normally you would run and lose sight even before you reach the half.  But here these people could have continued till destiny.  A beautiful landscape passes by and you had all the time of the world to watch and observe each tiny detail.  The inside design took you right back to the early days of railway history, so far back in time that the word design did not even existed yet and fire had just been mastered.   Wooden benches of which the leaning can be swapped to either side so the voyager has a comfortable choice of direction and view offering as well very convenient change on longer rides to look for conversation partner or avoid them.  The ventilation system were eight not turning iron fans at the ceiling which might have chopped of some heads in their better days.  Reaching the slums of the city of Rosario, this transport converted into a bunker as each one of us had to slide down metal shields at the inside in front of the windows protecting us from stone throwing youngsters.  Nonetheless was the ambient just great as passengers stand up and walk a bit to stretch legs and get in conversation with other rail users.  Cards got dealt out, dices thrown, puzzles solved, guitars got played, some voices got tuned and a couple of old songs filled the belly of the worn out night train.  Twenty hours took the ride of six hundred kilometers and 30 pesos did cost the ticket for an everlasting memory.

Clase-turista-del-tren-Córdoba-Buenos-Aires Image from the website:


*Get as fast as possible your tickets to be sure you have a seat.

*The lower the class the more ambient (Pullman = backpackers level: musicians, handcrafters, … and low-cost travellers who have lots of stories to share ;-) )

*Although the tickets got pricier: 90pesos (172pesos both ways) and for students 77pesos  (146pesos both ways), it’s still cheaper than the 600-800pesos expensive Pullmans  (but they are twice as fast… about 10 hours travel)

*Lots of passengers leave the train at Rosario, so if you’re fast you might find a bench for yourself to sleep stretched out.  Not sure this is possible in the new trains.

Categories: Argentina | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Be the wolf in Cuesta Blanca…

Let yourselves go and get rid of all travel guides.  Don’t follow the herd, shave that wool and be a wolf.  Look for the sensation of doing something different, get your bag packed and jump on the bus and ask a ‘boleto’ for Cuesta Blanca, a town located in the department of Punilla in the province of Córdoba.   A 50km ride from Córdoba capital following the ‘Camimo de las Altas Cumbres’ takes us to this small community parted in half by the San Antonio River.

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It’s this stream that makes this place so special by providing smaller natural pools with crystalline water and clean glittering pink sand beaches both perfect for relaxing the mind and body as these waters cure,… some local told us.

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Cuesta Blanca has the privilege to find itself enclosed in a mountain forest with its many autochthonous trees, grasses and native vines with beautiful shapes and colourful leaves and flowers.  The native fauna gives us 180 varieties of wild birds, iguanas, rainbow trout, weasel, fox, otter and many others.  The wonderful hike along the riverside, from our empty camping site to one of the further beaches, Playa de los Hippies, is a reason on itself to visit this beautiful place.

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After some days you will be revitalized and might be ready for a whole lot more of traveling but maybe never again able to let the wool overgrow the wolf inside you! ;-)


Our recommendations:

– Take a good book and enjoy the out of this world feeling

– Binoculars are a must as many smaller beautifull coloured birds fly by and are dificult to see with bare eyes

Eco-camping is situated a bit further from the center just next to the river, offers bbq,  shared showers, has a small shop to buy drinks and delights their visitors with nightly frog and bird chants.

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Categories: Argentina | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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