Hell’s Transports. INC


There are 2 ways to get to the coast and both are more or less the same, passing the “sierra” which means mountains.  So a girl we met on the trip to Oaxaca named Elisabetta, informed us about a cheap transport.  A minibus for 12 passengers offers the seven hour drive for 150 pesos a person.  And that’s about 3 times as cheap as the normal bus so that’s our transport!!!  We arrive at time (20 min late but still 30 min before the engine starts to warm up), the group of travelers are split up in 3 minivans and off we go, just when it starts to rain.  A caravan of 3 Mercedes drives through the narrow streets slowing down for every traffic light and stepping on the breaks for each kind of topesTopes, a short introduction:  a tope is multi-used Mexican way to control the speed on all kind of roads, paths and highways.  Most of the times bumps or bulges are protuberances on the road surface well indicated and strategically place.  Here in Mexico topes are placed where they should be and where people ask for them.  So at the entrance and exit of each village, there are topes before and after every house, topes before and after every turn, you’ll find them where animals might cross the road, there are topes where people want to sell you whatever because in order to pass the tope you are basically standing still.  I call those ‘Tope Comercial’.  Topes where people might walk along the road, there are topes where an old man once remembered that there was some fog hanging over the street and there are even topes to warn you for other topes.  Bumps, we have them also in Europe… but here in Mexico it’s an all other level!!!  It’s a religion here… locals swear by topes!!!  There are square topes, rectangular ones, there are platform topes or just a row of smaller (but as deadly as the rest) topes, half oval topes which are just a bit easier than the half round ones.  There are topes so high they clean your car between wheel and wheel and might give your car a sportive look as it bends the exhaust upwards leaving sparks all over the road.  There are mono, double, triple even quadruple topes, there is the topes– bed (a widely spread area of mini topes, the economic tope (made of dry mud), the home made tope (which consists of laying a big rope over the street surface), the tope invertido (invested, basically a long hole across the street) and the rubber tope.

topesdf      Foto topes Speedbump

The 7 hour trip is through the sierra and for this full of climbs, descends, turns and other inconvenients.  One after the other, left and right and at least 90º or more.  Here in Mexico the wonder of a bridge or the miracle of a tunnel is not meant for secondary roads to smaller communities.  So here we are in a small bus with too much passengers moving in all directions depending the turn or at which side of the tope we find ourselves.  It is correct to say that this must be the fastest way to get to the ocean.  Three vans driven at night by men… there must be some challenge!  Truth?  So it is a matter of racing each other while listening the driver talk and comment their movements by walkie-talkie.   The evil caravan left Oaxaca at 23:45 and it starts to be really late and we are truly tired but it is impossible to sleep.  Every time my eyes shut I get dizzy as being on a ship in the middle of the ocean by storm and every time I open my eyes I just see the jungle passing by as a black-grey beast trying to eat us.  And where the headlights do light the scene there is just this green wall we are about to crash at the inside of a turn… or the stars and 200meter down worth hill at the outside of the turn.  The effect of being so exhausted and still being so alert gives me a straight free ride to one of the most amazing hallucinations, where every shade starts to have a recognizable form.  Animals, objects and faces are jumping out of the green as fast as they disappear as well, depending of the speed the car lights illuminate the jungle, which on its turn depends on the quantity and type of tope we come across.  Never in our whole live 7 hours took so long… you can sit in an empty room and watching pass by the 25200 seconds that counts 7 hours and still time will pass by faster than in this bus from hell driven by the devil himself.  Finally we arrive (exhausted yes, but alive!) at Puerto Escondido. Surfer’s paradise where we find the hotel for the five of us… in hard times it is easy to find friends. We check in and prepare ourselves for a day of beach and sea. Warm water provided by the Pacific energizes our body and the sun together with some fresh beers do the same with our souls. We are a happy group of youngsters hanging around, taking life as it comes and having fun. Elisabetta, Jonathan, Justin and us, we end the day having a great dinner with our feet in the sand at the shore of Zicatela Beach. With waves as background music we fall asleep. Waking up we do some research and decide to move on to Mazunte the same evening, a small village at the beach where easy and calm are the key words. So after another day at the surf beach watching waves and surf movements never seen…

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we take a transport to Mazunte. Arriving at night we look for a place to sleep and got some instructions from Jonathan (who returned to Oaxaca) but there is no way. Far away from the village, in the jungle, with two drunk, stoned and strange behaving individuals offering a place full of mosquitos and for this also spiders… it is not even an option. So back on track in the dark of the night a couple, owners of a hostel, crosses our path and invites us to check out their place and offers a room for the four of us.  A nice second floor room, with mosquito net and a fan, without windows, in a wildly eco-grown jungle garden, at 100 meters from the beach… just perfect!!! We stay. We eat in a small street restaurant, a 50 pesos full three plates menu with drinks included and go direction the beach where we can hear some nice music. A party in the Siddhartha bar at the beach calls our attention as it is crowed with persons dancing and drinking, talking and laughing. After having some drinks, we end the night and make a long walk at the beach. Covered by the almost full moon which lightens the waves that leaves white sheets over the beach, beautifully reflecting the shade of coconut palm trees. The jungle night sounds fill up the air between waves and waves.

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In the morning we take a boat to go see some sea life, but not after we help to get the boat in the sea. Once we are floating, we look for turtles and finally we find some…copulating. The guide jumps in the water and catches the turtles in full action. We jump after him and watch how two beautifully green sea turtles… having sex during ten minutes.  Two big beautiful sea creatures just in front of us, they take a last breath and dive, as fast as you can say turtles they disappear in the depth of the big blue ocean. I would never have guest, seeing them arriving on beaches slow and clumsy, moving without progressing, that they are so fast under the water surface. As they flap their fins, they just glide at illegal speed (Godspeed 😉 @ Jonas) into any of the three basic dimensions. we get back in the boat and look for more turtles and fast we realize we were not in Nemo’s porno set but in Nemo’s orgy as all around turtles are reproducing… we cannot observe every turtle act and more we don’t want to disturb animals in their process of reproduction as more than once they disengaged in order to escape their worst enemy: humans. On the way back dolphins guide us for some long minutes doing their things in the waves and cheer up our day with some playful jumps. After this we say goodbye to Elisabetta, wish her the best for her travel, enjoy a bit the beach, taste our first coco and have a short coco photos session. Just to make envious our friends at home, in the evening we have a nice tuna fillet with some live jazz music as background. And while sitting at the edge of the terrace we spot Leslie, another girl we met in Oaxaca, with who we went to Aguas Calientes. We talk a bit, share experiences, have some laughs and promise we will assist her birthday drink the next day.

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So waking up we make a long walk through the village and have a wonderful long swim/play in the big waves that brake on the beach itself. It is fun and very exhausting and sand is pushed in every place where it should not and several times a wave catches us, it does exactly what it wants to do with us and we end up in the middle of the beach. In the evening we come together with some people to celebrate Leslie’s birthday and have a amusing chat ending up in a beach house of Leslie where we have a great evening talking with various locals and drinking several Tequila and Mezcal.

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The last day in Mazunte is the dedicated to adventure. Together with Justin and his friend Alessandra we make a walk to ‘the far away from civilization’ Playa Mermejita. From there by jungle trail to Punta Cometa for a sunset overlooking the beach and ocean between some hippies and yogis meditating and hoping for a purer life.

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After sunset we walk home in a dark jungle that covers us with big black palm and banana leaves.  A wilderness at the same time magically lightened up by short flashes of thousands of fireflies not exactly indicating our path but magical as few things can be. By an open space in this tropical forest, just before arriving at our bedroom, we stand still and watch the hill that lies below us lightening up… mother nature is breathtaking!

Categories: México | Tags: , , , | 10 Comments

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10 thoughts on “Hell’s Transports. INC

  1. Godspeed!
    how fast? 😀

    beautiful stories, Cuz’!
    keep ’em coming!

    • Godspeed isGodspeed!!!! I knew you would like it… didn’t receive a comment of Peter yet… zal nog wel komen wabt die was ook den heln tijd aan’t klagen… Greetz en zoals altijd worden der af en toe fotokes gestuurd he…

  2. Ruth Sablon

    mission accomplished : I envy you! 🙂

    • I just want to share it… so at home you can be also on the road with us… But this part between Oaxaca and the coast is definitly NOT to envy… LOL Greetz to Raf, your Bertje

  3. Saludos desde Colorado ! Estoy aburrido en el trabajo , así que decidí Ver bitácora en mi
    iphone durante el almuerzo. I amor Información proporcionará aquí y
    no puedo esperar para echar un vistazo cuando llegue
    a casa . Estoy conmocionado maravillado cómo rápida tu blog cargado en mi teléfono celular ..
    ni siquiera estoy usando Wi-Fi, 3G solo .. De todos modos De todas
    formas , muy bueno gran sitio !

    • Thanks, we do what we can 😉 if you gonna travel… don’t hestitate to ask for extra info and if you like so share our blog with whoever you know that might dream of big travelling… Greetz The Hermes.

  4. After looking into a few of the blog posts on your site, I truly appreciate
    your way of blogging. I added it to my bookmark webpage list and will be
    checking back in the near future. Take a look at my web site too and let me know your

    • tnx for the interest we’ll keep on blogging!!! Greets from somewere on the american continent 😉

  5. There’s definately a great deal to find out about this topic.
    I like all of the points you made.

    • Every person that once have taken a bus in Mexico knows what we’re talking about… 😉 tnx for the interest we’ll keep on blogging! Greets from us somewere on the american continent

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