Montezuma: beach, waterfalls and good vibrations


When we arrive in Montezuma both temperature and humidity rises while time slows down till an unperceivable slowness as it didn’t seems to have made any click on the clock the last 40 years.  In this most outer south corner of the Nicoya Peninsula, here relax, peace and being one with nature appears to be the main activities.  We compare some of the hostels and the 20$ per room in the center located Hotel Aurora looks the best for us as we get a lovely room with private shower, large common area with hammocks and billiard and a good full equipped kitchen to our use.

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We drop our heavy backpacks, change from on-the-road wear to beach wear and leave the hotel for a full day of joy.  We walk the only street this hamlet has and get to the village beach where reggae sounds out of the one bar this beach counts.  We walk to the east where long white beaches ogling await for us.  Shelf-colored sand, blue-greenish water, light blue sky with snow-white clouds are here just for us, waiting till we put our beach towel down and lay on it while the sun, high in the bleu tinges our body.  We swim and read while we watch and wonder the beauty that it is.  We even invent a game, which I lost, in order to find out who’s cooking at night.

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And while all of this is happening to us, two of the nicest persons come across the beach toward us: ‘The Earles’.  Ed and Sophia, the British honeymooning couple we met crossing the Guatemalan-Honduran border and which travel route have been crossing ours since that moment.  We tell each other the experiences we had and were we have been traveling, they present us to their British friend Allen who lives these days in Australia and to Cathy a French girl they met here in Montezuma.  It feels just right and soon we feel like a group that knows each other already for years.  When Sophia starts to tell a story and Ed fills in the gabs Eddy Izzard-wise and later Allen, to end, makes this dry humoristic one-liner conclusion, we just laugh our asses off.  We all walk, after a long day together at the strand, to the village.  From there we start our trekking to the Montezuma Falls, an upriver hike to a beautiful scenic 12meter cascade with suitable sized lake to swim.  We scramble rocks, dive from behind the waterfall and have a nice time swimming and cooling off in the fresh water.

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It starts to get later and darker as clouds are covering the sky and Allen is already racing his way downriver, back to the civilization trying to keep ahead of an imagined flash flood, so it’s time to go back and prepare diner.  I cook, the two of us eat and later the group goes for a drink in a, what seems to be the only, bar (Chico’s) with some local Latin music.  Some two other Americans join the group and the table gets crowded.  While lightnings brings alive the sky far over the ocean, we are set for a night of fun, stories and experience exchange.  A new day starts with a pancake breakfast (I bought at Ometepe almost 3kg of pancake mix for just 80C$ and since then are hot pancakes the morning dish and cold pancakes our lunch!) and preparation for a very long jungle- and beach walk to one of the ‘must-see’ of Montezuma.

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Pick-nick: check, water: check, knife: check, sun cream: check,… flip-flops: check. (Thanks you Steven for the Crocks!!!) and we are ready.  Endless seems to be the jungle trail and once on the beach (Playa Grande) we even can’t see the end of its sandy flat. We pass the Nicolas Wessberg Reserve. Later as the beach get smaller and pass the Romelia Wildlife Reserve, we have to climb our way through the driftwood, cross some rivers that flow into the ocean and conquer the rock formations to get finally to the isolated Playa Cocolito with a secret.  But for those travelers and adventurers who are willing to suffer mutually the heat and the distance is guarded a truly worthy treasure: one of the few in the world existing waterfalls that ends directly in the ocean.  A true marvel of nature!  Eden must have had one of those!

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We spend some time there and after a swim in the sea, a fresh shower and after a fresh waterfall shower again a dip in the ocean starts our journey back to the known world.  By doing so we find our dear friends joyfully struggling with waves, balance, driftwood and surfboards.  We stay at the beach where we get a master degree on ‘how to open a coconut’.  The what for the moment more looks like ‘men against fruit’, takes 4 persons and 30 minutes to open just one.  Ed wisely points out, that in matter of life and death, that in order to survive, he’s not even shure or the coconut even provides enough calories to replace the ones we are burning in the attempt to open one.  But then again… it’s our first lesson.  We have a great time and a tasty coco so it’s heaven on earth for all of us.

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We cook in the hotel and later we meet in a bar for yet another evening of amusing and pleasurable conversations.  A new day is born and today we’ll check the west coastline of Montezuma.  A small tropical overgrown trail goes up and down and takes us along the shore.  We walk about one hour and find this half between the rocks hidden sand beach between Playa Las Manchas and Playa Las Rocas.  A few palm trees that provide shade make it the perfect place to enjoy the day.  We have a playful swim in the pacific that pulls us into the deeper part and spits us out again by every big wave, ending at the middle of the beach when the water disappears between the sand.  We look for and find a coco and manage to set a new record on getting to its milk and white sweet fruit.  Together with the Urracas, who eat all the small bits fallen of, we equally are very pleased with our new skill.  After a day of coco and pineapple (which is to buy on the street for just 5oo Colon) we go back to the hostel.

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At night we make a walk on the beach with the Earles and as we realize that it is not easy to find such a nice folks to spend some travel time with, we decide to travel together the next day, up to the capital San José.

Our recommendations: Hotel Aurora is not the cheapest in town(we found hostels for 7$ PP), shops are a bit more expensive, transport by boat direction PN Manuel Antonio is only payable in high season, hitch hiking in low season is possible but not easy

Categories: Costa Rica | Tags: , , , | 3 Comments

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3 thoughts on “Montezuma: beach, waterfalls and good vibrations

  1. Pingback: Montezuma: beach, waterfalls and good vibrations | The Hermes' Journey: a panamerican story

  2. Were staying at La Aurora in a couple weeks, I’m so glad to hear you love it. Your post has inspired me, now I can’t wait to get down there!! Kate

    • We were there at low season, the prices might go up a bit at december. Never pay the first offered price if you notice that the hotel is quite empty. Enjoy Montezuma, and if you like a hike don’t hesitate and ask where to find the waterfall at Playa Cocolito! But don’t forget to take enough water!!! Have a nice time. For more info don’t hesitate to contact us.
      The hermes Journey.

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